Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Going Local

We've been in Jakarta long enough that we are living like and experiencing things like the locals.  A few examples:

1)  When we first moved to Jakarta, our "culture shock" class instructor informed us that the city shut down over Idul Fitri.  The help returns to their villages, the Muslims gather with their families, and the non-Muslims move into hotels because they don't have any help around the house.  Our first two years we "toughed it out" by staying at home without any help.  That's when we learned that Idul Fitri celebrations include fireworks until 4 AM.

This year, we planned to go to Singapore for the five days (Sat - Wed) that would represent the Idul Fitri holiday.  Our emergency trip to the US kibashed that plan.  Instead, we've checked into the Shangri-La Hotel in Jakarta.  The only downside is the spa is closed for the holidays.

2)  More nanny issues.  In May, we brought back the nanny who left us on the last Idul Fitri holiday.  Losing staff during this time is quite common.  They go home to their village and decide to stay, or just use it as an excuse to change employment.  In our case, it was presumably the result of our nanny's husband finding employment and deciding he no longer wanted his wife to work.  In any event, my wife convinced her to come back for the birth of our new child.

There were a few what can only be described as "power plays" early after her arrival that we should have taken as a warning sign.  Instead, we overlooked it and wrote it off as our lack of understanding of the culture.  So she joins us in May.  We pay her for May, June, July and her Idul Fitri bonus.  Because we moved to Singapore at the end of May, she worked just three weeks in May, a week in June, and a week in August - 5 weeks.  Received 4 months of pay.  Then tells us the Saturday after we we return from the US her husband doesn't want her to come back after Idul Fitri.

That was enough for me.  I told her she was done that day and to leave.  I did not pay her for August or her severance.  I'd like to see her try to collect.


The longer we are here, the more we understand many of the comments we heard when we first arrived that we used to consider stereotypical, even bordering on racist.   The comments come from the frustration of experience.

I think every expat comes here thinking they will be different.  They will show all other expats how to treat people with respect and welcome cultural differences.  Then the reality of poverty hits them.

For the most part, I've been insulated from it during my time in Jakarta.  My direct reports at work are all smart, college educated, and, by Indonesian standards, well paid people.  They've been great to work with.  As I've ventured out and interacted more with the people who are struggling, I've experienced the same complaints I hear from other expats and successful locals, alike.

The adage says that money changes people.  Lack of money does, too.

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